Michele Orbolato, Head Sommelier & Head of Wine of Thesleff Group, masterfully handles wine programs across many Los Mochis locations, the group's famed Mexican-Japanese fusion restaurant. Orbolato, known for blending inventiveness, quality, and profitability, will also participate as a judge at the 2025 London Wine Competition. In an interview with The On Trade, he reveals how he curates wine programs to maximise profitability, overcome sourcing issues, and stay true to Thesleff Group's vision, all while providing a great guest experience across locations.

Your beverage menu features a majority of Japanese whiskies and sakes, plus agave spirits to match Los Mochis’s Mexican-Japanese cuisine. Tell us the importance of building a beverage program that caters to a restaurant’s concept.

A well-crafted beverage program is just as important as the food offering in creating a memorable dining experience. It's essential to give both the same level of attention to meet and exceed guests' expectations. At Los Mochis, I wanted to elevate the experience by introducing our guests to unique options like lesser-known sakes and Japanese wines. This approach allows them to immerse themselves in the rich cultures of both Japan and Mexico, creating a truly unforgettable journey.

What are some of the benefits and challenges of curating such a menu?

One of the main benefits of curating such a menu is the vast range of pairing options available, whether it's sake, agave spirits, wine, or whisky. There's always the perfect beverage match for any style of dish, offering endless possibilities to elevate the dining experience. However, a significant challenge is sourcing these products, as factors like limited allocations, small production volumes, and high duty costs can make it difficult to access the right selections.

How do you tailor wine lists to suit diverse audiences while remaining profitable and maintaining the restaurant’s theme?

The wine list is curated with two distinct approaches: one designed to be accessible and easy to navigate for a broad audience and another tailored for wine experts and connoisseurs. To achieve this, I organised the list into categories such as 'Crisp & Refreshing' and 'Burgundy Collection.' This allows me to offer a variety of options, from approachable wines to more complex selections, ensuring we cater to different tastes and budgets while maintaining the restaurant’s theme.

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How do you balance sourcing local brands with international selections? What are the benefits and challenges of each approach?

We prioritise supporting local brands, such as English wines, which offer easy access and reliable supply chains. At the same time, we maintain a deep appreciation for classic international selections, like Champagne. However, securing the right allocations each year can sometimes pose a challenge.

Image: Inside Los Mochis’ London City location

How do you manage supplier relationships across multiple sites to maintain quality and ensure the best pricing? What advice would you give to others on negotiating deals at scale?

Negotiating with different suppliers across multiple sites actually simplifies things, as it provides greater purchasing power. Typically, the best way to secure favourable deals is by agreeing on a minimum annual spend.

What are some of the training strategies you employ to educate staff about the wine offerings in a way that aligns with both the Mexican and Japanese culinary elements of Los Mochis?

Training is at the heart of what we do at Thesleff Group; we genuinely believe in the power of effective staff training. Well-trained staff are happier and more knowledgeable about our offerings, which in turn enhances the guest experience across all aspects of service, food, and beverages. I strive to make training fun and engaging, often incorporating incentives with the help of our suppliers and offering tangible rewards to keep the team motivated.

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How do you ensure consistency in the wine program across multiple sites, especially given the unique character of each Los Mochis location?

I maintain a similar style of wine list across all our locations. For example, at our Notting Hill site, the list is organised in the same way as at our flagship venue in Liverpool Street. This approach helps ensure brand consistency across our menus, offering a unified experience for our guests while maintaining a strong sense of identity for the brand.

Do you find that certain locations have distinct wine-drinking habits, and how do you adapt to those?

Yes, each location has its own distinct wine preferences. In Notting Hill, our clientele tends to favour easy-to-drink wines and sake that are perfect for sharing with friends and family. In contrast, at our city location, we cater to a more business-orientated crowd, who often expect a more refined and sophisticated selection.

How do current trends influence your drink selection?

Current trends, particularly in low-alcohol and alcohol-free drinks, have influenced my selection by prompting me to include more alcohol-free and low-alcohol wines than in the past. We've also seen a growing interest in 'natural' wine styles, especially among our younger guests, which has shaped our offerings.

Image: Tiki Tulum, a seasonal cocktail served at Los Mochis

What is your approach to finding beverage pairings that go along with the restaurant’s special dining experiences, like the TENrei: The Art of Tuna Ceremony?

My approach is to give full attention to the primary ingredient—in this case, the Bluefin Tuna. With each pairing, I aim to create balance on the palate between the tuna, expertly prepared in various ways by our talented Executive Chef, Leonard Tanyang, and the sake or wine selections. It's a truly wonderful experience, and I highly recommend everyone try it at least once.

In addition to by-the-glass and by-the-bottle wines, why do you think restaurants should also include half-bottle wines?

We offer smaller formats, including half-bottles, for guests who want to enjoy high-quality wine or sake without committing to a full bottle. This approach enhances the overall experience, allowing for more flexibility, and also encourages a higher spend per guest.

What do you see as the future of wine programs in the restaurant industry?

The future of wine programs in the restaurant industry will likely focus more on the story behind each bottle—who produced it, how it was sourced, and the viticulture practices used. Wine programs are placing greater emphasis on these aspects while still offering playful and unique styles, as well as larger formats. At Thesleff Group, we always aim to bring an element of fun to our offerings, and we’re truly passionate about making that happen.

Are there any upcoming projects or innovations in Los Mochis’ wine program that you’re excited about?

I'm really excited about the new venues we have in the pipeline, both in the UK and internationally. I'm also looking forward to the upcoming Omakase restaurant within Los Mochis City, where we'll be offering incredible pairings to elevate the dining experience.

What advice would you offer to other beverage directors looking to manage wine programs across multiple sites successfully?

My best advice is to truly understand your audience so you can curate a selection that resonates with them. At the same time, take every opportunity to educate guests when needed. This approach not only ensures good bin rotation but also maximises the profitability of the program.

Header image sourced from Michele Orbolato

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